Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and carts – hidden gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are unwilling to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these stories and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
